Take a bow II

A lot has been and can be said about men's formal "black tie" wear. In fact, I have some strong opinions of my own, but today I intend to restrict my comments to one, and only one, point. However, today's post represents the single most important starting point in assembling a black tie outfit.  It's pretty simple, too.

The single, most critical element that distinguishes a "black tie" outfit involves wearing a bow-tie, as opposed to a necktie.

I have come to the realization that it is the donning of a bow-tie that truly makes the outfit "pop out" as  timeless, formal, and classy.  

I'm sorry, but wearing a standard necktie just does not evoke these themes. There is simply too much proximity to the banality of the business suit.

So once you commit yourself to a bow-tie, you can worry about the other details later (choice of lapel (shawl collar vs peaked lapel), cummerbund, fly vs pointed collar, patent leather shoes, etc.).

But if you wear a black necktie you risk looking like a pall-bearer, Agent Smith from the Matrix or a Tarantino gangster.

-The Scandal

Calvin Decline

This spring, Calvin Klein has introduced an aggressive marketing campaign for its new line of men's underwear called "Bold" (not to be confused with the RIM device).  CK men's underwear has always proved hugely popular, especially after its notorious Marky Mark marketing campaign in the early 90's.

For the most part, I'd say the brand deserves  its preeminent status among men's fashionable underwear labels. Most of their underwear designs are stylish, minimalist, and masculine without being creepy. That's why their latest ads come as somewhat as a surprise to me.

I really can't relate to the fashion statement to be had by such bright underwear colours. I think men should probably stick to safe neutral tones, like ash grey or black. As for white underwear, it will always have the schnooky "tightie-whitie" stigma, so unless I'm wearing white pants, I stay away from them.

The bottom line (pun intended) is that I don't think men should view their underwear as yet another fashion accessory ripe for a dramatic, sexy style reboot. I never cared for goofy or quirky underwear offered by brands such as Joe Boxer or Bjorn Borg, and I'm not feeling the latest CK line either.

-The Scandal

Who Bee Buzzing?

Question: Which men's designer is currently, and has received the most buzz over the past year?
Answer: Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy.

Let's examine this a bit.

It has not hurt that Tisci has been the fortunate beneficiary of a priceless PR campaign that any marketing director could only dream of: Kanye West and Jay-Z have been touring for their "Watch the Throne" album in highly visible Givenchy outfits. Some of the album cover art was also designed by Tisci.

Many pop, rock and rap stars, especially the female divas, have their stage costumes custom-designed by well-known designers. But what makes this situation unique is that these two princes of hip hop are wearing pret-a-porter pieces that can be purchased by the likes of you and me, for the right price, of course.

I was browsing e-bay the other day and the Givenchy buzz generated by the tour was quite evident.  The rottweiler (shown above) and bird of paradise motifs (shown below) are so immensely popular that people are apparently willing to pay ridiculously large amounts of money for them.  I saw a bird of paradise t-shirt being offered for a cool $1,200.

Runway model showing birds of paradise motif

Kanye with Riccardo Tisci

And what about the collections themselves?

Here are links to the Fall/Winter 2012 and Spring/Summer 2012 collections, or you can also take a look at some of the pics below.

Spring/Summer 2012

Fall/Winter 2012

All images copyrighted to GQ.com

As for my own thoughts, my first impression was that the acclaim of the label seemed to rest on the success of mere graphic designs, whereas a designer label such as Givenchy should instead make its mark by showcasing things like interesting cuts and fabrics. However, upon reflection, I reconsidered my bias. Perhaps Tisci's novelty is precisely in his use of interesting and unique graphic designs?

Furthermore, Tisci's cuts, tailoring and fabrics are far from conventional. While it's hard to see to whom his man-skirts will appeal--rock and rap stars, excepted of course-- it's undeniable that Tisci has successfully created his own little fashion universe that is probably worthy of the buzz he's received.


-The Scandal

Top 5 most affected items in Menswear

A man who cares about style always wants to dress well without looking like he's trying too hard. His style should be --or at least come off as -- an effortless expression of his personhood. But how does he pass off something to which he obviously devoted considerable thought, as completely natural? Ah! Therein lies the rub.

This list is a compilation of menswear items that, if worn, are virtually guaranteed to ensure that a man looks like a pretentious tool.


4. Overly hemmed/cuffed pants

The hemlines in men's pants and jeans have gotten higher and higher during the past 3-4 years or so. High-rolled cuffs are also trending hard.

Originally an eccentric trend arguably started by Thom Browne and eagerly adopted by hipsters, it's now so mainstream that all the suits in GQ photo spreads feature high cut pants.

I don't mind men messing around with their hemline to flash a bit of sock (or bare ankle), or rolling up their cuffs, but this trend has now spun out of control.

So if you think rolling up your pants or cutting them mid-shin will instantly turn you into Nick Wooster, I'm afraid you will simply look like a gimmicky pretender.


3. Scarves worn indoors

Scarves are a great addition to any man's wardrobe--when worn properly. And  "properly" necessarily entails that they should almost always only be worn outdoors and not indoors, especially if it's a wool scarf.

                                             Photo copyrighted to The Sartorialist 

But there is no justification in having an otherwise uncomfortable and itchy giant pile of fabric worn around your neck unless the cold weather so dictates. A scarf with a t-shirt? How about a speedo with combat boots?

Sadly, like adding hot water to Ramen noodles, many men think they can instantly dress up their outfit  by simply donning a scarf. They are wrong.


2. Wool/Winter hats

Same deal as with scarves: some hats can look good outdoors, but most look silly indoors. I've posted before about men's hats generally, and also about my special hatred towards slouchie hats, especially when worn indoors.

I've also noticed some pretentious douches wearing winter hats, such as toques, indoors in a nightclub. Though they may think "peacock", everybody else thinks "pigeon droppings".

1. Gloves (indoors)

Do I really have to explain why anyone wearing gloves indoors looks foolish ? Didn't think so.

I've seen my share of self-anointed fashionistas with their sleeves rolled up in order to accentuate their leather gloves. The only people who can wear gloves indoors are surgeons, Luke Skywalker and the "rent-is-too-damn-high" guy.

-The Scandal

Start Spreading the Ooze

I'm not sure the New York shows had enough odious material to merit a "Worst of" post of their own, but there were two shows that absolutely stood out as being truly wtf-awful. If you'll forgive me this time, there won't be any witty musings. I'll just post the pics and let them speak for themselves.

The Blonds

Jeremy Scott

All images copyrighted to wwd.com 

-The Scandal